“Hero’s Welcome in Orsières” after the 1986 feat
“Nature and the mountains are the ideal place for me.”
FROM THE ALPS TO THE HIMALAYAS
Jean Troillet was born in Orsières in 1948 and became a mountain guide at the age of 21. It was with his older brother Daniel that he took his first steps in alpinism in his hometown, climbing routes such as the Clochers des Planereuses, the Ecandies, and the Aiguilles Dorées.
In 1975, Jean moved to Canada. On the continent, he discovered destinations such as Patagonia, the Yukon, and the Cordillera Blanca.
By 1982, he was heading for the Himalayas, whichheexplored for 30 years. He climbed ten peaks over 8,000 m, all in alpine style.
| What does alpine style climbing mean?
Alpine style climbing consists of making an ascent at high altitude without fixed ropes, a carrier or any supply of oxygen, which makes the climb much more engaging and risky. |
THE NORTH FACE OF EVEREST (8,849 m)
“At our base camp on the north face on the Tibetan side, therewas no one […], itwaspeaceful. It was a littleparadise, […] wewere at 5,600 m, and therewereflowers, grass.”
In 1986, Jean reached the “Roof of the world” via the north face, accompanied by Erhard Loretan, in just 43 hours round trip from the base camp at 5,500 m high.
After spending 1.5 hours on the summit and experiencing numerous hallucinations due to the lack of oxygen, they began their descent. Sitting down, they used their ice axes to brake and their feet to steer. Eleven years later, Jean became the first person to descend Everest on a snowboard.
Picture: Everest, 1986 © Jean Troillet
ALPINISM, A STORY OF FRIENDSHIP
“The mostbeautifulthing I rememberfrom all myexpeditionsisfriendship, there’snothing more beautifulthanthat.”
Jean remembers Erhard Loretan specifically, with whom he formed a mythical roped team and climbed eight peaks over 8,000 meters; and Jean-Yves Fredriksen, nicknamed Blutch, always accompanied by his violin.
This solidarity extends beyond the rope team to all climbers, reminding us of the importance of helping other climbers.
Picture: Jean Troillet, Daniel Troillet, and Guy Genoud during the opening of the new route on the north face of Pointe Biselx, in the Aiguilles Dorées © Jean Troillet
| Since when have women been accepted in the Swiss Alpine Club?
Answer on the next board -> |