“Alpinist, a masculine noun?: the integration of women into alpinism in Switzerland
ROPED UP : WOMEN’S EXPERIENCE
Nicole Berthod, a mountain guide from Bramois, discovered alpinism with her family. She was introduced to it by her brothers and sister.
She obtained her guide diploma in 2013 at the age of 25 and sees this recognition as a personal challenge and a form of empowerment.
“I wanted to test myself, to push mylimits, but also to show that any one could do it!”
In recent years, Nicole appreciates women rope teams, which offer her a new way to share her passion.
Picture: South face of Mont Blanc at the Red Pillar of the Brouillard, 2024 © Nicole Berthod
ALPINISM, BETWEEN ETHICS AND ESTHETICS
Nicole defines alpinism as a multi-faceted practice that goes beyond the physical dimension. It is deeply rooted in the natural and cultural environments in which it takes place. Alpinism is guided by ethical values, such as respect for the environment, as well as aesthetic values:
“In alpinism, beauty matters, both the beauty of a line and the beauty of movement.”
This practice also has a collective dimension, where rope partners contribute to the beauty of the experience.
| How long have women been accepted in the Swiss Alpine Club (SAC)?
When the SAC was founded in 1863, some sections accepted women, others did not. After being officially excluded in 1907, the Club Suisse des Femmes Alpinistes (CSFA) was established in Montreux in 1918. Finally, in 1980, the CSFA merged with the CAS, marking the official integration of women in the club. |
“In the Orny and Trient region, I find the mountainsveryaestheticbecause of the nature of the rock and the shape of the peaks. I really like the energy of granite and the distinctive vegetationfoundthere.”
In 2024, Nicole and her brother Didier opened “Toune d’Automne”, a new route on the Petit Clocher du Portalet. A film of the same name retraces this adventure.
| We often talk about climbing, what about coming back down?”
The return is an important question for her : How do we come back from a mountain expedition, both physically and mentally? How do we get on with our life after completing a lifetime’s project or after losing a fellow climber? This dimension of “coming back” remains mostly untold… |