«Free the Portalet» (2004) : a portrait connecting two generations of alpinists
MICHEL, ALONE WITH THE EIGER 1934-2014
Michel Darbellay discovered the mountains in the Val Ferret at a very early age. By the timehetrained as a guide at the age of 26, he had already completed numerous alpine routes. Known for his discretion, he approaches each climb with humility. His style is fast, efficient, almost stripped-down: he climbs with little equipment, relying on agility, experience and technique.
On August 3rd, 1963, at the age of 29, Michel became the first man to climb the fearsome Eiger north face solo, in 19 hours. This mythical face, nicknamed the “Wall of death“, is impressive for its sheer drop, its rock and waterfalls, as well as the need to master techniques on both rock and ice.
After his feat on the Eiger, two shoe models from the Val d’Or brand were named after him and became iconic in the 1960s.
Picture: Eigerdarbellay, Val d’Or © Alpine Museum Collection, Chamonix-Mont-Blanc
In the Val Ferret, Michel achieved numerous firsts, including the north face of Mont Grépillon (3’579 m) and the Darbellay route on the Dalle de l’Amône.
On the Petit Clocher du Portalet (2’985 m), he opened two emblematic artificial climbing routes.
Picture: Michel Darbellay and Michel Vaucher in “A New Ascent” on the north face of the Portalet, 1965 © Michel Darbellay, Valais Media Library – Martigny
| What is artificial climbing? In artificial climbing, the climber uses equipment (pitons, stirrups, etc.) to help him progress up the wall. This technique differs from free climbing, where you climb only on natural holds. |
A FAMILY TRANSMISSION
Alain and Benoît Darbellay follow in their father Michel’s footsteps. As teenagers, they climbed the Dolent (3’819 m), the Matterhorn (4’478 m) and other 4,000 meter peaks in the Alps with him.
After a career as a skier and a guide, Alain now devotes most of his time to the Camping des Glaciers, founded in 1969 in La Fouly by his parents, Michel and Agathe.
“My parents werepioneers, it’s up to us to try to keep the Camping des Glaciers going.”- Alain Darbellay
Picture: Benoît, Alain, and Michel on the summit of the Allalinhorn (4,027 m), 1986 © Alain Darbellay
| Can you spot the Dalle de l’Amône that is located above the village of l’Amônaz? Answer on the next board -> |